Land Rover Series Maintenance: Keeping an Old Landie Going

Written by Petro Olekhnovych, mobile mechanic in Aylesham, Kent

Good Land Rover Series maintenance is mostly about the steel underneath, not the aluminium on top. Keep a close eye on the chassis and bulkhead for rust, check the front swivels for pitting and leaks, and watch the leaf springs and their mountings. Regular oil changes and catching the leaks that matter will keep the mechanical side going for a long time.

A quick word on what you are maintaining

Classic & Sports Car describes the Series II arriving in 1958 and the Series III in 1971. The leaf-sprung Series III was replaced by the 110 and 90 in 1983 and 1984.

All of them share the same basic recipe. Octane sums it up as leaf-sprung suspension, a steel box-section chassis and aluminium panels. The engineering is simple, and Classics World says strong parts supply and simple engineering make engine overhauls fairly straightforward.

That simplicity is the good news. The bad news is that the steel parts rot, and a Series will keep driving long after it needs attention. Octane notes they can soldier on with bad brakes and worn steering, which is exactly why regular checks matter.

Chassis and bulkhead rust

Classic & Sports Car puts it bluntly: rot is still the Land Rover’s nemesis. The body is aluminium, but the chassis, bulkhead and floor are steel.

The places the buying guides tell you to check are:

• Rear crossmember
• Outriggers, where mud is thrown up from the wheels
• Spring hangers and other suspension mounts
• Front chassis legs
• Body mounting points, where the aluminium body bolts to the steel chassis
• Front bulkhead, especially the footwells, the lower area and the door hinge mounts

The bulkhead deserves special attention. Goodwood’s buying guide calls it especially prone and very expensive to address. Series123’s guide warns that a badly rusted bulkhead usually means taking the body off to repair it.

Do not ignore the aluminium either. Series123 advises checking for corrosion wherever the aluminium meets other metal, such as where the body bolts to the chassis.

Series123 points out that the spring mounting points are load-bearing. Rust around them is a structural problem, so get it looked at before driving far.

Front swivels: pitting and leaks

The front swivel housings are the big chrome balls behind each front wheel. Series123 says they should not be badly pitted, as pitting allows oil to leak past the seals. Classics World also notes they can suffer from pitting and corrosion, though it says replacement is not expensive.

When you check them:

• Look for a smooth, shiny surface with no pitting or rust patches.
• Look behind the wheels for oil. Classic & Sports Car warns that hub oil leaks cause rapid wear.
• Check the oil level in the housings with the correct lubricant from your workshop manual.

If oil is reaching the brake shoes or drums, stop driving it and get it checked. Oily brake linings do not stop the vehicle properly.

The steering has six balljoints, according to Classic & Sports Car. It says slack or stiff steering is often easy to fix there, but a worn steering box or idler costs more.

Leaf springs and their mountings

Series Land Rovers use leaf springs at both ends. Classics World says the main worry is corrosion around the mounting points, and that you should also check the springs have not sagged or rusted.

Series123 gives some simple tests:

• The vehicle should sit level if all springs are healthy.
• Individual leaves should be an even thickness along their length.
• Spring shackles should sit at about 45 degrees at the rear and near vertical at the front.

A Landie leaning to one side, or sitting low at one corner, usually has a tired spring or a mounting problem. Both are worth checking before the next long drive.

Oil leaks: which ones matter

Old Land Rovers leak, and the owners know it. Goodwood’s guide even jokes that it is time to worry if there is no oil dripping from the transmission or diffs. Classics World notes that oil leaks from the transfer box and axles are common.

So what matters? Classic & Sports Car singles out the rear axle pinion seal. It says leaks there quickly lead to axle failure. Keep the axles and gearbox topped up and get worsening leaks sorted.

On the engine, Classic & Sports Car suggests checking for excessive oil breathing. With a pressure gauge fitted, it says to expect about 40psi at speed, or 30psi on V8s. If your oil pressure light comes on or the gauge drops sharply, stop the engine and get it checked.

Greasing and routine servicing

Series Land Rovers were built for owner maintenance. Goodwood says much of the routine work suits a capable home mechanic. Your workshop manual is the place to find each grease and oil point, the right lubricants and how often to do them.

For the 3.5-litre V8, Classics World says an oil change every 3,000 miles is ideal. For other engines, follow the interval in your workshop manual. Classics World also calls checking the brakes at every service sensible.

GOV.UK says a vehicle built or first registered more than 40 years ago may not need an MOT, as long as it has not been substantially changed. It must still be kept roadworthy. Octane still says an MOT is worthwhile for most Series IIIs. Our post on the historic vehicle MOT exemption explains the rules. If you are thinking of buying one, our classic car buying checklist is a good place to start.

How we can help

We look after classic and vintage vehicles across East Kent. Classic car servicing in Kent is a big part of what we do, and we come to your home, farm or workshop.

For a Series Land Rover we can do an oil and filter service, brake checks, fault finding and a general health check. If we find chassis rot or something outside the jobs we do, we will tell you what it needs. Bigger engine work can go to our Kent workshop, as covered in our classic engine rebuild guide.

Labour is £30-£50 per hour depending on the job. We agree the price on WhatsApp before work starts, and parts are extra.

Frequently asked questions

Is it normal for a Series Land Rover to leak oil?
Small drips are common. Leaks from the rear axle pinion seal, or oil reaching the brakes, need sorting straight away.

How do I know if my swivels are worn out?
Look for pitting or rust on the chrome surface and oil weeping behind the wheel. Badly pitted swivels let oil past the seals.

Where does a Series chassis rust first?
The guides point to the rear crossmember, outriggers, spring hangers and front chassis legs. Also check the front bulkhead.

Can you service a Land Rover at my home?
Yes. We are mobile and can come to you in the areas we cover around Aylesham.

Need help? Send a WhatsApp to 07563 350335 with your car’s make and model and we’ll come to you.

Sources

• Something For The Weekend: Land-Rover Series II/III - Classic & Sports Car
• Land Rover Series II and III buyer’s guide - Classics World
• Land Rover Series III buying guide - Octane
• Land Rover Series buyer’s guide - Goodwood Insurance
• Land Rover Series 3 buyer’s guide - Series123
• Land Rover Series 2 buyer’s guide - Series123
• Historic (classic) vehicles: MOT and vehicle tax - GOV.UK